Repair.IT – Kleenmaid TO500X Oven door hinges replacement

The other day, my son heard a cracking sound when he opened the oven door, and it wouldn’t close properly anymore.  It seems that the oven door hinges spring wasn’t working to hold the weight of the door and when closed, the door would sit ajar.

On further inspection, the pin that would connect to the springs was broken, so there was no choice except to remove the door from the oven so that I could have a better look at the problem.  Fortunately the manual showed how to remove the door, which in this case was very easy, lift it, and then pull outwards while tilting back towards the oven.  If the springs were working, we would have to normally open the door, then engage the hinge latch which would allow the door hinge to stay in the open position for the door to be removed.

I found that the part number was GN166667 and after a quick check on eBay found a supplier that had a pair of these original hinges for around AU$64 after an eBay discount was applied.  If I order this from the spare parts warehouse, I would be paying AU$55 plus delivery for each hinge, so I ordered from eBay and saved a bit of money.

On my Kleenmaid oven door, there are two screws that hold the inner door from the outer glass door.  Also around the top and sides of the inner door is a sealant that has also deteriorated.  I found by at Bunnings, a Sika 300g Black Sikaseal Appliance Sealant for AU$14.78 that has a high temperature resistance, up to 250°C which appears to be the right sealant for the job.

Next step was scraping off as much of the old sealant as I could – a razor blade would have been handy, but who has one of these nowadays with electric shavers.

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A few days after I had ordered the hinges, they arrived.  The hinges are held to the inner door by three screws, two on the base, and one screw that is at the top of the hinge, only accessible when the inner door has been separated from the outer door.

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The inner door, by the way had two sheets of glass – one that is facing the inside of the oven.  This means that the door assembly has three sheets of glass, so good insulation of preventing the heat from radiating through the door.

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Here is a picture of the two hinges after removing from the door.  The top one should not be able to stay like that since the spring should be pulling back, except of course it is broken.  From recollection, a while ago, the door didn’t seem to be closing properly which could mean that one hinge had already failed at that time.  Also I didn’t find any broken bits of the pin, so no idea how it broke unless it had just kept wearing away, due to the door being opened and eventually there was not much left of it.  The oven is 12 years old – and I have worked on this in the past, with various electrical issues, but this was the first mechanical issue.

After the replacement hinges were installed, I then applied the sealant – it was difficult to squeeze the trigger and move the tip at the same time, to get the sealant into a good straight line with the correct thickness.  Of course, if I did this over and over again, like the appliance repairers do, I could then do a good job each time, but for my first, I did an adequate job.  Once the sealant was on, the inner door was mounted and screwed up.

I did have a bit of sealant squeeze out, so used a cloth to wipe around the edge of the inner door, and got most of the excess sealant off and cleaned up well enough.  The sealant generally takes 24 hours to cure, so it was left in the garage to do this (also the sealant smells, and wife doesn’t take kindly to stinky things in the kitchen).

The next day, I wipe the door over, since the garage is dusty – then needed to extend the hinges and lock them in the open position.  I used an adjustable spanner, to hold the tip of the hinge, then cranked it open – then moved the latch, and released the hinge.  Both hinges were done eventually.  I did slip with the spanner a couple of times, without breaking my fingers, but one was a little sore afterwards.

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This picture shows the door removal and installation process – showing the movable lock that I call the latch.

Then it was a matter of getting the hinges into the slots in the oven frame, then letting it settle downwards and latch, then open the door fully, release the latches then the door can close – actually they closed very well – looked better than new, no gaps at all.

Now I have most of a tube of appliance sealant left over, who needs some?  By the way, if I got an appliance repairer to do this job, I wouldn’t need the sealant since they would have it, but it would cost AU$250 for the callout, and then plus parts and whatever additional labour is needed – so likely to be around AU$400 or so, but this has cost me AU$75 to do it myself.  There it is – another repair done, and the wife is happy!

Replace.IT – Power plug on workshop light

Sometime early this year, I was given a workshop fluorescent light which I thought would be good to improve lighting for my metal lathe in my garage workshop.  The light hangs from a couple of hooks that I placed on the support rail that my garage door rolls on.

Anyway, this is not really about the light as it could apply to any appliance.  I noted at the time that the power cord had a plug on the end which did not have the cord grip nut which clamps the cord to the plug so that pulling on the cord does not pull the wires out of the plug.  I had bought a replacement Deta 10A Grey Plug Top from the local Bunnings to replace it at a time of my leisure.

That time happened this afternoon, so on removing the plug cover – I noticed something which unfortunately is all too common.  The wires had been damaged, so it was a good thing that I was replacing it.

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The insulation on theground and neutral wire appeared to have been cut.

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Turning it over (although a bit out of focus in this photo – I should retake the photo but my camera battery needed charging), shows that similarly, the active wire insulation is also damaged.  This happens if a Stanley knife or common box cutter is used to cut the outside insulation which if cut too deep ends up cutting into the wire insulation, thereby exposing the conductors.

I cut the end off the cord so that I could show you what it looked like, then fitted the Deta replacement plug wired according to the instructions and firmly fitted with the cord grip nut.  The motto is – if possible, always check appliances that you are given in case they have been modified – or have someone do this for you.

 

Replace.IT – Upper fan for Antec 1100 computer case

I am a little down with the flu, so sitting at home, it is always a good idea to do some writing, or is it blogging – to clear the backlog of R.IT articles.  The Antec 1100 is a great computer case, since it has lots of fans, and space for hard disks, and lots of expansion slots.  That’s a lot of lots – right.  It had started its life as a case from my scrypt (think – cryptocurrency) mining computer, and was eventually repurposed for my VMware ESXi server.

My ESXi server needed six hard disk drives so this case was ideal for it. After a couple of years of operation, I started hearing a bit of rattling sounds from the server which would come and go.  Eventually I noticed after removing the side panel, and by looking up, that the top exhaust fan, was sometimes stopping and if it would spin, would spin with a wobble or slight rattle.  This was the cause of the sound.

The fan was a 22cm fan, but it was a slightly longer shape – and checking on some forums found that others had similar problems, but had replaced the fan with a standard 22cm computer case fan. I found a Bitfenix 22cm case fan from a local supplier who had it in stock, so bought that one.

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Here is the original fan from the Antec 1100 case. The mounting holes are not as standard as I thought.  When I compared it with the Bitfenix fan, I found that the Bitfenix followed the standard mounting radius and that the Antec fan, had a slightly smaller radius.  After some consideration, I noticed that there were other spots where mounting holes could be available, so used a 4.5mm drill to enlarge the holes adjacent to the standard mounting holes.  It is a bit hard to describe, so here are a few photos.

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This shows the new holes nearby, and the next one is a closeup to clearly show the new mounting hole that is away from the corner.

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So, after this, it should be a small matter to reinstall the fan, however since the server was still running, I decided it would be best to shut it down to make the job easier.  I don’t want to accidentally drop a metal screw onto the motherboard and cause a failure to occur.  Another Replace.IT done.  Now what should I write about next, maybe something of an electronic nature – except those haven’t come up very much lately.

 

Repair.IT – Overheating Presario SR5120AN motherboard

Remember two and a half years ago, approximately, I repaired my Compaq Presario SR5120AN motherboard which had a number of failed capacitors?  Ok, it was some time ago, so here is the link.

https://j0hn88.wordpress.com/2014/12/22/reveal-it-faulty-capacitors-on-presario-sr5120an-motherboard/

At the time, five capacitors had failed, but there were still four others of the same brand and size on the motherboard. I checked them with an ESR meter and they all passed. Fast forward to a month ago – I noticed that my computer cpu fan was getting louder, sometimes normal then suddenly high speed and this kept happening. I ran a utility to check the CPU temperature and it was …  99 degrees, wow! No wonder the fan was on turbos a lot of the time.

I shut down and took the computer apart to reveal the motherboard.

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Two of those same original capacitors were showing the symptoms of failure – see the bulging top and black spots. After some effort, I was able to remove these two capacitors, then replace them with the ones in that little bag – I originally bought ten of these 1800uF 6.3V electrolytic high temperature capacitors. I checked the remaining two on the board and they check out fine.

So, reassemble the computer, and power on – leave it on for a while, and I can see that the CPU temperature is sitting reasonably stable at about 80 degrees. This is still quite hot and would appear to be still abnormal. Since I still have three spares left over, why not just replace the remaining two capacitors and be done with it.

That is what I did – took out the other two capacitors, replaced them with new ones. While I was doing this, I checked the capacitors with my ESR meter, which showed that these two were still ok, but anyway I have new ones in the motherboard now. Once the computer was up and running again, leave it for a while and then it was looking good so I decided to run the Passmark Performance Test, which stresses out the computer.

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This is what the CPU and graphics card temperatures were during the test and then the cooldown period afterwards. The CPU maximum went to about 93 degrees but then back down and sitting stable at 54-60 degrees. This is amazing and shows that even though the ESR meter indicated that the capacitors were ok, replacing them reduced the average temperature dramatically. Why is that – maybe the capacitance has changed? Wait, I can check this!

Just over a year ago, I had bought from eBay, a Mega328 Transistor and component tester. I can connect the parts I have removed and compare with new parts.

These two are the failed capacitors. They appear to be back to back diodes with differing forward voltages.

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Here is a new one – my final remaining capacitor. The value is 1829uF, ESR is good, with Vloss of 2.5%.

Here are the two apparently good ones that I replaced. These also appear to be good as far as the tester is concerned, however replacing these two also brought down my average temperature of the CPU. Why? I don’t really have an answer for this, but maybe someone has.

Right now as I am writing this, my CPU temperature is sitting at around 80 degrees, with CPU load at about 85% since my antivirus scan has been running for some time, but certainly nowhere near the 99 degrees at idle that it was a month ago. It has been a few weeks now, and all seems to be well.

Replace.IT – Laser Switch on my Makita LS1017L Sliding Compound Saw – finally!

A couple of months ago, I mentioned how the laser switch on my Makita saw didn’t turn on the laser. I had pushed a piece of foam between the contacts, which made the switch work. Well, it did work – for quite some time, at least until yesterday afternoon – when I was trying to cut some of the final pieces of decking board.

My deck was completed, and what I was doing was to use the decking board to place on top of my raised garden bed to make it look nicer and also to have a place to sit when working on the veggies. Anyway, it was getting late, so I left it until this morning.

I needed to cut a couple of final pieces of board, and the laser would not come on – so I got out the replacement switch that I had purchased back then, and opened the switch cover. The foam had become compressed after all this time, so was not doing its job – therefore it was better to replace it finally. After removing the two wires that have spade terminals attached, it was an easy matter to use a small screwdriver and unclip the original switch. The new switch fit into place with a slight bit of force, and then the two wires attached, and screwed the cover back on.

The laser came on – great – and I quickly cut the boards, and now – I don’t have anything to use the saw for. Well, I will think of something – maybe a bench seat to fit onto the deck, yes – that sounds good, as I have a lot of ACQ treated pine left over from the garden beds – which is another story.

Replace.IT – LCD Screen for Compaq Presario V6002AU

I had this Compaq Presario V6002AU 15.4″ laptop sitting around for a little while – as they do. This laptop had a bad lcd screen, in that the display is dim and doesn’t look like anything is recognizable. I had taken it apart to check the screen. I have a copy of the Maintenance and Service Guide for this laptop. This guide shows how to open and replace parts of the laptop and is a must-have if you are to do this properly without damaging any of the plastics or component boards. Most of the time, these guides are quite accurate – and occasionally they might leave out an instruction or two, like in this case, remove the front panel switch cover requires removing three screws instead of two screws.

Ok, that isn’t the topic of today’s post – but the lcd screen is. The Compaq spare part number for the lcd screen is 431386-001, which is with BrightView, i.e. glossy. I duly went on Google to check whether this panel was available, and found a local supplier on eBay that had this for $81.99 including free postage. Ok, so I ordered it, and when it arrived, I noticed that the backlight cable was a little short. I compared panel part numbers – my original panel is a LG Philips LP154W01 (TL)(AE). The replacement panel is a LP154WX4 so I contacted the seller and we conversed via eBay and email. Anyway after explaining that the backlight cable was too short by about 2cm, I asked whether or not they had a LP154W01 (TL)(AE) in stock.

They came back to me by asking me to cut the backlight cable, and take the old backlight cable and join it to the replacement panel, and that way it should reach. I replied that this is not recommended especially since the backlight voltages are very high, usually from 500 to 900Volts. The wires have silicone insulation and if I do cut it and repair, it can form a leakage point, whereby some of the time, the display becomes dim, due to the backlight not lighting properly. Not to mention voiding the panel warranty if it should fail and then they say that the panel has been tampered with. Anyway, the solution to this eBay panel is that they asked me to send it back and they will refund me.

Now, I could find the required panel, but at a higher price, about $115 – but then it isn’t really worth it. I decided to scrounge around my old broken laptops and eventually came across a Compaq Presario V4000 with the same size screen. Ok, maybe I can use this so proceeded to remove the screen from the laptop. This screen is a LTN154X3-L01 – however the backlight cable is long enough, and the lvds connector is in the right place. I obtained the datasheet for this screen, and confirmed the pin configuration of the lvds connector is the same and the original screen. The resolution is the same, so how about I try it out? I connected this screen temporarily and powered on the laptop and was greeted with a Compaq power up screen, ok – great, so switched off and proceeded to install the screen properly.

After everything was put back in place, I had zero screws left over – always a good feeling. I power up and it wouldn’t power on – now what. Then I realize that maybe the battery is flat. It just happens that one reason I wanted to resurrect this laptop is that it uses the same battery as a HP Pavilion laptop that we had had for many years, which I have a spare battery for. I grabbed the spare battery and put it in and powered on – success, the laptop booted into Windows XP Professional. This laptop only has 1GB of ram and can handle up to 2GB maximum. I think I will use this as my Windows 10 test machine, or perhaps just run Linux on it.

The moral of the story is that quite often lcd screens from different laptops can be compatible as long as the lvds connector is the same and it is located in the right place. This one had a 30 pin lvds connector, but it is always good to compare pin configuration just in case one screen doesn’t use the standard wiring – don’t want to damage a good screen or damage a laptop motherboard.

P.S. No pictures, since a working laptop is … a working laptop.

Repair.IT, Replace.IT – Paging PC not booting

On Saturday, a PC was delivered to me – an urgent repair job.  The PC has an 8-port serial card in it and is used to send messages to pagers – yes, pagers are still being used.  Anyway, the symptoms described are that it keeps rebooting – which very much sounds like hardware, but can be software.

On closer inspection, I noticed that a number of capacitors on the motherboard were bulging, a sure sign of over-temperature which causes the electrolyte inside to become pressurized almost to the point of opening the vents – some were open, you can see the dark marks on top of the can.  Anyway, replacing the capacitors is really not an option, hence a replacement motherboard is required.  I proceeded to check the motherboard model and found that it has a LGA775 processor.  Luckily there is still one motherboard available – a Gigabyte GA-G41M-Combo which will work, but it has DDR2 or DDR3 ram.  The old motherboard had only DDR ram – one 256MB module.  Anyway, as I would have to wait until Monday to obtain the parts needed, I thought I would power it up anyway.  It wouldn’t power up – or rather, it wouldn’t stay powered up.

I removed the power supply and connected my PSU Tester – it turns on then blinks off.  Ok – a power supply is also needed.  I connected my test power supply and proceeded to power up.  I can see the bios screen come up, but pressing Del on the keyboard doesn’t go into setup – strange.  Anyway, I see that it goes a little bit, then a beep and it resets again – so this is the symtom that the customer reported.  I proceeded to remove the heatsink, and processor – which was an Intel Celeron D 346 running at 3.06GHz.  It was then that I saw more capacitors that had failed, hiding under the heatsink.

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Sharp eyes will see three on the right of the cpu socket, then a few more spread around the heatsink in the middle of the motherboard.  On Monday, I went out and picked up the new motherboard and a new 550W power supply.  Then I went out mid morning and disaster struck – my car broke down, overheating.  The car isn’t really part of this story, but suffice to say that 4.5 hrs later, my car has been towed to my local motor mechanic and I am home, having a cup of coffee and a sandwich.  Back to work – I proceeded to install the processor, using Arctic Silver 5 for the heatsink compound.  Don’t forget that I am reusing the cpu and heatsink, so have to clean all the old thermal compound off, then tint the cpu top and heatsink, then a smidgeon of Arctic Silver 5 – supposed to be 2.5 cubic millimeters or about a grain of rice.

Installed two pieces of 256MB DDR2 ram – double the original ram, will make it work better, but obviously it is only running a simple application so it isn’t necessary to have more memory.  Installed the power supply – connected up all the cables to the DVD-Rom, floppy drive and hard disk drive.  Power up – keyboard not working, USB mouse not working – ok, what gives?  Power off then back on – same thing.  It seems that the keyboard doesn’t work.  I have a spare PS/2 keyboard somewhere – ok, got it and tried again – good, my keyboard is working, but mouse isn’t.

Windows XP Professional – with a change of hardware will require reactivation.  Choose not to, because the network isn’t working.  I try to eject the dvd-rom, but nothing happens – it has failed too!  I downloaded the network driver from the Gigabyte website, since for some reason, the supplied driver cd won’t read on my laptop – then put the driver onto a usb flash disk, and used that to get the network driver installed.  Continue with driver installation – there are lots of drivers needed, eventually I got most of them done, then had to find the video driver, sound driver and last of all – the drivers for the Decision PCCOM PCI 8 Port serial card, which I can’t seem to find quickly.  No choice then but to get Windows to tell me which driver is wanted, then copy it out of the windows folder and point the hardware install to that location, and keep doing this for the other 8 files needed.  The drivers were already there, so I just had to find them and put them somewhere for windows to copy again.

So, a couple of hours later, everything is updated – Windows wants to install some XP updates – so agree to them, and eventually got it updated except for SP3 – I decided not to do this, because sometimes applications stop working when that is installed.  Oh, by the way, the floppy drive also had failed, but luckily the hard disk drive was still working.  How about that?  Power supply, motherboard, dvd-rom drive, floppy drive and keyboard had failed.  The USB mouse eventually worked after the drivers were installed – weird.

Final word – the Paging PC has been Repaired, with mostly everything in it Replaced – so that was “Repair.IT” and “Replace.IT“.

[Note] I think that the power supply was starting to fail – maybe introducing a lot of ripple onto the supply lines, which caused the capacitors to overheat – because they are trying to smooth the DC voltage.  Then eventually the power supply failed more such that the keyboard, dvd-rom and floppy drive was destroyed.  The USB mouse was still ok, so that only uses 5V and the drives use 12V – but why the keyboard – I can’t explain that.  So eventually the power supply failed completely and stopped turning on – at least for me.  The DDR ram might still work, but I need to find an old computer to test it.  When I get a bit of time, I may go through the exercise of replacing the failed capacitors and look at fixing the power supply, but at least the customer is happy now.