Repair.IT, again – Samsung CLX-3305FW Colour Multifunction Laser Printer

Recap: Back in October 2018, I wrote about the repair of this Samsung CLX-3305FW printer.  Fast forward about a year – I was printing a long document that I needed for studying my CompTIA Security+ course, and partway through, the printer stopped feeding paper.

I went and checked the paper feed roller – just like last time – but this time, it didn’t work. In the meantime, I needed to finish the printing, so bought a reasonably inexpensive Brother MFC-L2730DW Mono Laser Multi-Function printer, which could also do automatic double sided printing, which meant that I could save on paper as well.

The Samsung was relegated to the garage where it was stored, until fast forward to Feb 2020. Just a week ago, I decided that I found a requirement to print something in colour. So, then the Samsung came out of the garage, and I decided to do further troubleshooting to see if I might be able to repair it this time.

This meant removing the paper tray, so that I could see the paper feed roller in action. There is an interlock switch, so I opened the rear cover door, put something into the tray sensing switch to indicate that the paper tray was installed, then another to set another switch to think that the rear cover door was closed.

After powering on, I selected the menu to perform a network configuration report, which should print out the network settings. By using a torch shining into the area that the paper tray would normally sit, I waited for the paper feed roller to rotate – after a number of clicks and attempts to feed paper, the printer stopped with an error – Paper Jam, and of course, no movement of the paper feed roller.

This would explain why adjusting the paper feed roller did not work this time. After an extensive google search, where 95% of the responses was to replace the paper feed roller, I found an article that mentioned something about a paper feed solenoid. A check of the service manual, showed that this device actually did exist, buried in the internals of the frame base-paper path mechanism. But no troubleshooting diagrams in the manual involved the solenoid.

After finding a Youtube video from someone cutting a piece of foam rubber, and attaching to the solenoid – I thought, why not. I had nothing to lose by trying this. So the steps I followed was:

  • Remove all the toner cartridges and place them somewhere safe
  • Open the rear cover door
  • Remove 4 screws and remove the rear cover
  • Release and remove the right cover
  • Release and remove the left cover
  • Remove 4 screws that secure a printed circuit board, and partially remove the connectors and the board

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  • Remove some screws and remove a gear assembly – actually this might not have been necessary, because maybe only one or two screws were needed, but I had done this anyway.

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  • 6 screws removed, and then the frame base-paper path assembly could almost be removed.
  • 3 cable connectors on the left, when viewed from the back and 1 connector on the right needed to be released so that they could be threaded through the metal chassis, before the aforementioned assembly could be completely removed.

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The picture above is viewing the side of the assembly that has the solenoid on it – as pictured in the service manual. After removing the gears as needed, the solenoid was released and could be looked at. Sure enough, there was a black pad, that seems to have compressed almost completely over time.  The printer was bought mid-2014 so after 5 years of only moderate use, this black pad had deteriorated.

The reasoning behind this is that the pad should have been probably 1.2mm thick, so that the clapper plate would be within range of the solenoid operation.  But being further away, meant that the solenoid wasn’t strong enough to pull this plate in, which would then release the gear that allowed the paper feed roller to rotate.

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I remembered that I had some natural rubber sheet, previously bought to repair a vacuum pump, so got a piece of it out and cut it to similar size and after scraping off the original black foam, it had some sticky stuff left on the plate that my replacement appeared to fasten firmly.

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I added a dab of plastic glue, just in case, but normally the solenoid retainer would keep this in place.  Next is a photo of the solenoid re-installed, but without the gears.

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Then finally, all the gears back on, together with the paper feed motor.

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You can just see that solenoid buried inside. Then the chore of re-installing everything back in, keeping to the order that things were removed, then putting the covers back on and count how many screws remain – none, great, so everything is back in place.

Occasionally during repairs like this, there is the extra screw left over, which had been removed at one stage, and when memory doesn’t work to put it back, so taking lots of photos before and during disassembly helps, to see if there is a missing screw.  My extra screw collection is quite small – I have heard of engineers accumulating large numbers of these extra screws, but that is another story.

So did the printer work, I can see you asking. Yes, definitely. On power-up, a page was fed and ejected, due to the paper feed gears being in a position to rotate. Next up, print the network configuration report – the output was very crisp, meaning that the printer was working properly.  Yes, I did also remember to install the toner cartridges before powering up.

The big test was printing a colour certificate. I had only recently in the past week passed my 210-255 exam for the Cisco CCNA CyberOps certification, so just wanted to print the certificate while the original was being processed for shipping. Success again, the certificate printed out with only a slight discolourationin the pale blue background – but hopefully that should clear up once the printer gets a few more printing jobs done.

Now since I have also passed my CompTIA Security+ and CompTIA CySA+ certifications, I should try printing the CompTIA Security Analytics Professional certificate which I get by completing those two CompTIA certifications.  Now I will concentrate on studying for the CompTIA PenTest+ certification.

Repair.IT – Vertical Blinds broken or detached cord

I was asked to look at some vertical blinds at my sister’s apartment where the cord had either broken or detached, such that the blinds could not be opened or closed. This was after my nephew had moved out of it. It turns out that two bedrooms, and the balcony blinds were in this state. The information I got is that something broke off some time ago, and it had been left like this until I was told about it.

Since I am the handyman of my house, and especially for things that others are unlikely to know about – I had first look at the problem. The ends of the loose cords were blackened, very likely from using a cigarette lighter to seal the ends – so that meant that the cords were not broken as such, so should be relatively easy to fix.

After working out how the system works, I managed to thread the cord ends back to where they should go.

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Here in this photo – it would seem that both cords should be fastened to this white plastic bit, that should have a metal clamp on it that had broken off.

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The intact metal piece on a working blind. So how do I join this? After some considering, I remembered that I had some crimp eyelets from a miscellaneous small size nut and bolt set that I had bought back in 1977. I found some of these.

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I only had five of these, so also decided to use a slightly larger eyelet. The idea being that I would drill the white piece with a 2mm drill, then use a self tapping screw to anchor the eyelets after crimping.

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Here I have crimped the eyelets to the ends of the cords. You can see the blackened ends sticking through the crimped area. Next I drilled the small hole, to enlarge the existing hole in the white plastic, then screwed it in place. As I was doing this, I heard a cracking sound – uh oh, the white plastic is too brittle with age.

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Ok, so the white piece had split but was still connected to the clear plastic piece. Back to the drawing board – how do I make sure that the ends will stay connected to the white piece?

Why not use some cable ties? After checking some dimensions, I realized that I could use a wide cable tie to go around the white plastic, then a small cable tie to go through the eyelets and through the larger cable tie – well, this is where this article is IT related.

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After doing this, and trying it out, it seemed to be satisfactory.  So I cut the cable tie ends off as shown here.

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Then to look at the other one on the balcony.

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This white piece is a bit more broken, but the cable tie method should still work. Well it was done, then finally, the second bedroom was done the same way. The blinds will open and close properly and the materials used were 6 irreplaceable crimp eyelets, and 6 cable ties of two sizes. Time-wise, about 1-2 hrs in total, the slow bit was figuring out what to do, then threading the cords back to where it needs to be connected.

That beats the cost of replacing the vertical blinds since the broken part is likely not to be available, or needs the track to be disassembled completely in order to replace it – which would be a lot more labour. Now, I wonder what that white plastic piece is called…

Repair.IT – Kleenmaid TO500X Oven door hinges replacement

The other day, my son heard a cracking sound when he opened the oven door, and it wouldn’t close properly anymore.  It seems that the oven door hinges spring wasn’t working to hold the weight of the door and when closed, the door would sit ajar.

On further inspection, the pin that would connect to the springs was broken, so there was no choice except to remove the door from the oven so that I could have a better look at the problem.  Fortunately the manual showed how to remove the door, which in this case was very easy, lift it, and then pull outwards while tilting back towards the oven.  If the springs were working, we would have to normally open the door, then engage the hinge latch which would allow the door hinge to stay in the open position for the door to be removed.

I found that the part number was GN166667 and after a quick check on eBay found a supplier that had a pair of these original hinges for around AU$64 after an eBay discount was applied.  If I order this from the spare parts warehouse, I would be paying AU$55 plus delivery for each hinge, so I ordered from eBay and saved a bit of money.

On my Kleenmaid oven door, there are two screws that hold the inner door from the outer glass door.  Also around the top and sides of the inner door is a sealant that has also deteriorated.  I found by at Bunnings, a Sika 300g Black Sikaseal Appliance Sealant for AU$14.78 that has a high temperature resistance, up to 250°C which appears to be the right sealant for the job.

Next step was scraping off as much of the old sealant as I could – a razor blade would have been handy, but who has one of these nowadays with electric shavers.

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A few days after I had ordered the hinges, they arrived.  The hinges are held to the inner door by three screws, two on the base, and one screw that is at the top of the hinge, only accessible when the inner door has been separated from the outer door.

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The inner door, by the way had two sheets of glass – one that is facing the inside of the oven.  This means that the door assembly has three sheets of glass, so good insulation of preventing the heat from radiating through the door.

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Here is a picture of the two hinges after removing from the door.  The top one should not be able to stay like that since the spring should be pulling back, except of course it is broken.  From recollection, a while ago, the door didn’t seem to be closing properly which could mean that one hinge had already failed at that time.  Also I didn’t find any broken bits of the pin, so no idea how it broke unless it had just kept wearing away, due to the door being opened and eventually there was not much left of it.  The oven is 12 years old – and I have worked on this in the past, with various electrical issues, but this was the first mechanical issue.

After the replacement hinges were installed, I then applied the sealant – it was difficult to squeeze the trigger and move the tip at the same time, to get the sealant into a good straight line with the correct thickness.  Of course, if I did this over and over again, like the appliance repairers do, I could then do a good job each time, but for my first, I did an adequate job.  Once the sealant was on, the inner door was mounted and screwed up.

I did have a bit of sealant squeeze out, so used a cloth to wipe around the edge of the inner door, and got most of the excess sealant off and cleaned up well enough.  The sealant generally takes 24 hours to cure, so it was left in the garage to do this (also the sealant smells, and wife doesn’t take kindly to stinky things in the kitchen).

The next day, I wipe the door over, since the garage is dusty – then needed to extend the hinges and lock them in the open position.  I used an adjustable spanner, to hold the tip of the hinge, then cranked it open – then moved the latch, and released the hinge.  Both hinges were done eventually.  I did slip with the spanner a couple of times, without breaking my fingers, but one was a little sore afterwards.

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This picture shows the door removal and installation process – showing the movable lock that I call the latch.

Then it was a matter of getting the hinges into the slots in the oven frame, then letting it settle downwards and latch, then open the door fully, release the latches then the door can close – actually they closed very well – looked better than new, no gaps at all.

Now I have most of a tube of appliance sealant left over, who needs some?  By the way, if I got an appliance repairer to do this job, I wouldn’t need the sealant since they would have it, but it would cost AU$250 for the callout, and then plus parts and whatever additional labour is needed – so likely to be around AU$400 or so, but this has cost me AU$75 to do it myself.  There it is – another repair done, and the wife is happy!

Repair.IT – New Year’s resolutions

Happy New Year! to all readers. This Christmas and New Year period has been very hot in the Sydney area, so what resolutions have you made this time?  One of mine was not to leave things too long that need repairing, and also to write about it, if it is worth writing about – not to leave that too long either.  I remember a saying that if you thought of something (or an idea) and didn’t write it down, it is as if you had never thought of it.  How many times has someone come up with a new product or service, and you said “I thought of that a long time ago!”

To come to today’s subject, is not really IT related but here goes.  We have a built-in wardrobe in our main bedroom where the doors would not shut properly, would blow open on a whim – you know the ones, you close one door and another one opens.  I had already repaired one door a year ago (or was it two) by replacing the hinge.  At the time, I had noticed that the wooden frame to which the hinge attached, had a crack in it.

After a number of windy (read “stormy”) days recently, this particularly door was blown open which was causing the crack to get larger.  I could wait until the door fell off, but that would be a bigger job to fix.  Also my dear wife had something to say about that the night before, however on New Year day, I decided to remove both doors attached to that frame to fix the crack.

I did this by using a small screwdriver to open up the crack, then squeezed PVA glue into the crack and helped it by using a knife to coat the glue onto the inside surfaces.  Once that was done, I used a number of clamps to close the crack and left it to set overnight.  Of course, I did have to use a soft cloth and wipe up the excess glue that squeezed out.

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You can see from the photo above that it is quite a long crack.  So what does this have to do with IT or recycling – it does have repair though, but here it comes.

While removing the door on the side that the photo shows, I noticed that each hinge was held by two bolts with a nut on the other side, which had embedded into the wooden frame by tightening each time the previous owner noticed that the door was loose.  The wood is quite soft, so I can’t keep doing this so decided to come up with a proper solution.

After scratching my head a little bit, I came up with an idea – I needed something with a screw thread, like a nut but with a flange on the other side, that would not dig into the frame like the nut did.  I quickly did a few measurements and drew up something on a small piece of paper.  The original screws were 3/16″, but I decided to use M4 screws since I had almost a box full of M4 x 25mm stainless steel countersunk screws left over from another repair.

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As the photo shows, a metric 4mm internal thread, so making the outside about 5.2mm diameter would give a wall thickness of 0.6mm which should quite sufficient.  The flange could be about 18mm in diameter with a thickness similar to the hinge on the other side, so about 1.5mm.  So this is where my metal working equipment came into play.

I had some 20mm mild steel bar left over from another repair job – almost 2m of it, so cut off about 12cm with a hacksaw.  I could have used the bandsaw, and on hindsight should have, but what are muscles for if you used them from time to time.  The inside bore of my lathe is 20mm so this means that I could put longer pieces into the lathe chuck, but cutting a smaller piece means that the lathe has less work to do.

I made the first part with about 1cm of thread – cutting metal can be fun, but since my lathe is a small one, I had to take a number of small cuts – like 0.5mm at a time.  I see some Youtuber’s taking 2-3mm cuts of steel at a time, but that would be using a more powerful or larger lathe.  Some of you may be wondering about the process of doing this?

  1. Mount the mild steel bar in the lathe chuck, enough for the machining needs – around 2cm.
  2. Take 1mm or so off the bar diameter, for the total length of the part, plus 3mm for the parting off and a bit more.  This meant about 18mm.
  3. Spot drill the center hole with a center drill first, then with a 3.3mm drillbit to full depth.  For the next piece, I won’t need the center drill which is used to start the hole.
  4. Turn off the lathe (and unplug the power) and attach my homemade hand crank/turner for the spindle, to tap the M4 thread by hand.  Using some cutting fluid /lubricant on the tap, use the starter/taper tap, then the intermediate tap, and finally the bottoming/plug tap.  Remove the spindle crank.
  5. Power up again, and turn the shaft to the right length and diameter of about 5.2mm – I made the first one 10mm long, but decided to do the remaining pieces shorter – around 5-6mm, less work involved.
  6. Use a parting tool to cut the piece off the bar leaving a flange of about 1.5mm thick.  When it is almost cut through, I used a plastic pipe held next to the parting tool so that the part falls inside when it gets cut through.  This avoids the part spinning around at 900 rpm falling and running off somewhere off the lathe.
  7. Repeat the process another three times.

My wife asked – couldn’t I have just gone out and bought something like this?  Yes, if I knew who might have it but on January 1, 2019 – Bunnings was open, but I had the tools and the material.  How much was this worth?  I used about $3000 of equipment to make these four parts.  When getting into metal turning and milling, it doesn’t look expensive, but once you get a few upgrades like quick change tool post, 12mm turning tool sets, etc – it all adds up.

As an example, the parting tool, is from Hare & Forbes, and buying one now as a kit would be https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/L464 for $198.  The quick change tool post that I have is  https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/L280 – another $198.

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Once the glue was set, I used a 50mm long wood screw, after drilling a pilot hole, to screw into the frame – this should help keep the crack from opening up again, since just relying on the glue is not a good idea.  Then it was a matter of cutting the M4 screws to be a little shorter, like 17mm in length overall – then placing the wardrobe door on some spacers to get the height correct – then fastening it.

The photo shows where the old hinge on the next door was replaced with a proper door hinge a bit lower down – that door was next on the list to remount.

Some of you might comment on the finish of the part – I can see turning marks/grooves on the part.  This is due to the material of the mild steel bar that I used.  It is not a free machining steel, so it doesn’t cut cleaning in the lathe – it feels a little gummy.  But then carbide tools are not very sharp, so using high speed steel cutting tools should improve the finish – but nobody is really going to look at it since it spends most of its time covered by the doors – so here this is, my first repair job of 2019.

I did actually work on a second repair, but that one was machining a piece of nylon with a 4.5mm spigot sticking out and then riveting it to a piece of plastic that is part of a paper towel holder but I didn’t take any photos of it.

 

Repair.IT – Sony RM-GD001 Remote Control for Sony Bravia KDL46X2000 LCD Digital Colour TV

Here is another job that was sitting there for some time, having put up with the inconvenience patiently until it was time to look at it.  This remote control for a Sony colour TV had been playing up – first it was unable to turn on the TV – but that was ok, since we use the side power button anyway.  Then we couldn’t adjust the volume, again the side buttons still worked.  How tolerant we are?

Then the input source selector stopped working, so we had to use the side buttons again, to access the menu so that we could choose a different HDMI input when we wanted to play Blu-ray movies.  We went through the same hassle to switch back to the Google Chromecast, etc, until it happened that it was time to do something about.  Maybe the wife complaining also helped to bump up the priority.

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This remote control RM-GD001 was relatively easy to open up.  By opening the battery compartment, I could see two screws that needed removing – this is usually a sign that the job will not be difficult.  The ones where there are no visible means of fastening are usually the harder ones.

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I needed the smallest precision Philips screwdriver since the screw slots were so small and thin.  After removing the screws and the battery, I turned my attention to the bottom where there were two visible holes.  By inserting an angled pair of tweezers into the two holes and pulling upwards, the bottom started to come apart.

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Then once the opening was sufficient, I then use an old plastic card to slide into the opening then around the corner and with a click, the housing started to unlatch.  You could use an old credit card, or used gift card (flybuys etc), since they are all a similar size and great for this purpose.

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Once the two pieces of the housing were separated

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This it was a matter of cleaning the contacts.  I used an alcohol wipe that I had previously bought from Officeworks.  Similar products are available from chemists, pharmacies, computer stores etc.  You have seen them before – nurses use them to clean the skin before giving you a needle.  The good thing is that when it dries there is no residue, unlike methylated spirits.

If you are quick, you can use the same wipe to clean both the black circuit board contacts and wipe down the black rubber buttons which press down onto the circuit board.  Once these were clean, I was able to put the batteries in, lay the rubber button overlay onto the board and try pressing some buttons and confirm that they do work.

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Now was also a good time to clean the top surface of the remote control as the buttons are not going to get in the way.

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Now that this is relatively clean, I clipped the two housings back together, put the screws back in, and I have a functional remote control again.  Another successful repair.

[Note 1]  It can happen that with use, the conductive coating on the buttons are worn out.  We can get a conductive paint and just paint onto the buttons again.  This is available as a remote control repair kit, that I have seen on eBay but not used.  Others have reported gluing thin pieces of aluminium foil onto the buttons.

[Note 2]  What if you want to test the buttons, but the appliance is not available?  I will explain how to do this with a common webcam attached to a computer.  I have this webcam that I put onto the table, and aimed it where I was working.  With the display on the monitor, I could press a button and confirm that the infrared led lights up.  This is possible because unlike the human eye, webcams can still see infrared light even though they may have infrared blocking filters in place.  I could also use a multimeter set to the current range, and activate the remote by putting the probes on either side of the black contacts – I did this to verify that the microcontroller was sensing the contacts currently.

Now this reminds me, the Samsung TV remote control in the lounge room was also playing up.  I had a universal remote control lying around that I reprogrammed for the Samsung TV, maybe I should look at the failing remote control!  Oh well, I will leave it for another rainy day.

Repair.IT – Samsung CLX-3305FW Colour Multifunction Laser Printer

Actually, as a species, human beings are quite tolerant.  What do I mean by this?  You print something and go to the printer and it isn’t there.  You look at the screen and you see the dreaded “Paper Jam”.  So the process is pull out the paper tray, no stuck paper – put it back in.  The message is still there.  So open the front of the printer where the toner cartridges are, pull out the cartridges one at a time – no paper stuck behind, so replace the cartridges, and close the front panel.

The message goes away, and the printer starts humming and the printout comes out.  Now this can happen for a while, until such time that even doing this doesn’t help.  Oh, there is another door at the back of the printer, so open and close this one, and sometimes this helps and the printout comes out.  Eventually, it gets to the stage where the paper jam happens almost every time you try to print.

We could have lived with this problem for months, because once we get our printout, we forget about the problem.  This is what was happening to my Samsung CLX-3305FW Colour Multifunction Laser Printer.  It hasn’t had a lot of use, from memory it is still on the second box of paper, so what could be wrong with it?

After a bit of googleing – (or is it googling?) it seems that the culprit is the paper pickup roller – which with printing and/or age, gets a bit smooth from the paper dust and other environmental issues.  Fortunately, I was able to find a service manual for this printer, and the diagnosis also appears to be the pickup roller.

Hence, two days ago, I decided that it was time to have a look at the culprit.  I removed the toner cartridges and stacked them neatly with a piece of newspaper on top to stop dust from getting onto them.  This was a precaution since it is easy to take things apart and then it sits there for days, weeks,…  Continuing, with the paper tray removed, I put the printer on its back – and just managed to stop the scanner lid from crashing down onto the toner cartridges.

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With the printer in this position, I could see and reach the pickup roller quite easily.  The roller is locked in place by a white piece of plastic, which is held by another black bit of plastic.

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Here is a closeup of the pickup roller.  By unhooking a tab on the black bit (where the dark line is), I could slide the white bit to the right, thereby giving some room for the roller to disengage, then spin it around 180 degrees and it comes out.

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You can even see some paper dust.  Then the pickup roller comes apart, by unlatching the two black bits.

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I brushed the rubber tube, then decided to turn it around by 180 degrees and use the surface which was not exposed as the new pickup surface, then put it back together.  Replacing it was just the reverse, put it back onto the shaft, spin it around, then lock it in place by moving the white and black bits to the left until it locks.

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So, there it is, another repair done.  Ok, so did it work?  It did say paper jam on the first page I tried to print, but then did the rest of the pages ok.  So time will tell if this is a permanent fix, or if I need to do more.

 

Repair.IT – Highgate wall light with PIR motion detector

Here is something that was on my bench for repair. A Highgate OL7664BK outdoor wall light with PIR motion detector. It is a nice light made from black metal housing with glass pieces which had been installed at a sister’s place during a small renovation, and then failed to turn on, a few months later.

After making contact with the supplier, a replacement light was sent out. In due course, the light was then replaced, and I was given the faulty unit – perhaps I could Repair.IT and get it working again.

After opening the light housing where the sensor is located, I found that the sensor unit is a small black box with the PIR on the outside and three wires going into it. Brown, Blue and Red – guess what these would be? Fortunately, they also went to a terminal block which was marked. Brown and Blue are standard colours for Active and Neutral, but Red’s marking was an X – ok, meaning switch.

Sure enough X went to the Active of the light socket, with Neutral being the common for the light socket. Also I noted that there was also a ground wire terminating onto a stud on the metal housing – that is very good indeed. Now, the light is still usable if we wish to use it just as a standard light fitting, without the PIR sensor by just wiring the input wires to the active and neutral of the light socket.  However, I am interested in how to fix it.

The small black box was sealed, but nothing a rubber mallet couldn’t solve, so eventually the seal where it was either glued or plastic welded – came apart and I could get to the interior.

Inside was a small board that was connected to the separate PIR sensor board. Often the question I get asked, is how do we determine what the fault it.  Generally we will know something about the device, in this case – it is a switch that turns on or off the light.  The PIR sensor board does the sensing, so it must then use the small board to switch the light.

Usually this involves an optical isolator which is usually in a small 4-pin or 6-pin package.  This optical isolator, or opto isolator will then somehow connect to a switching device, which is usually a triac.  This small board contained a MOC3023 which is a known optocoupler with a triac driver output.  From this chip, it connected to a triac via a small limiting resistor.

I examined and determined that a Triac had failed. In additional the small limiting resistor of value 200 ohms had also gone open circuit.

Likely what had happened was that the Triac had failed, and the ensuring high voltage caused excess current to flow through the tiny resistor which then failed. Or it could have been the other way around, but the resistor is slightly discoloured which meant that it had gotten way too hot.  In this photo, the resistor is the one near the top left.  The marking shows 201 but the 0 is a bit marred.

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The marking on the Triac was a BT136-600E. My local Element14 supplier had these in stock, for around $1.26 but then ordering this by itself  plus the resistor would incur a delivery fee much larger than the total.  Since this was a charity repair, I elected to buy these parts on eBay.  10x BT136-600E’s were $1.86 delivered, so this was a good deal.

The resistor was a 200ohm surface mount version in a 1206 package – I managed to find a good supplier that would give me 100 pieces for $1.34 delivered.  In the case of eBay, why buy 1 when you can get more for a similar price.  It leaves me with lots of spares for future repairs.

The BT136 was easy to remove, just using my desoldering station – it was a matter of minutes to desolder each pin and remove it from the board.  Similarly, but using a SMD tweezer soldering station, the resistor came off in a few seconds after heating.

Once the parts came in, which was a few weeks in most cases – I soldered the replacements into place.  Here I am showing the replacement resistor with a good 201 marking.

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Here is a view of the top of the board, showing the bad triac on the board mounting.

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In case you are wondering how small a 1206 resistor package is, it is 3.2mm long and 1.6mm wide, just don’t drop it on the carpet, since you may not find it again.

Oh, by the way, once assembled and wired up on the bench – it does work.  The light would light up when I walked near it.  Another successful Repair.IT