Repair.IT – Temporary fix of rusted letterbox post

While doing the lawn mowing yesterday, I noticed that as my mower brushed next to the letterbox – the letterbox shook. I then had a closer look and it was staying upright, but it could be pushed backwards with a little force. It was still attached at the back mainly, away from the street, but the steel post has most likely rusted almost through.

Once I brushed away the dirt and removed the grass that was covering the concrete block, I could see that there was a rusted hole in the post. The concrete pad used to be at the same level as the grass but the grass has grown up, and the dirt had migrated, causing the steel post to be covered with dirt and allowing moisture to attack it.

I decided to make a temporary repair – to remove the post, then insert a piece of timber that would fit inside the post and in the hole left in the concrete. First step was to remove the post – I was able to bend the post down and could see that the hole was also full of water.

I used a universal tool with a metal cutting blade, and cut the post off at the level of the concrete.

Next step is to cut off as much of the rusted section as I could, and then to clean out and empty the hole or water and dirt. I was able to soak up much of the water with a small rag, then scraped around the bottom of the hole, then used a vacuum cleaner, to remove the dirt and debris.

I needed a section of timber that would be 35mm square. I didn’t have anything to hand that would suit but could join two thinner pieces together. I remembered that I had some small pieces of Blackbutt decking board leftover from building my deck. Blackbutt is an Australian hardwood and is suited to outdoor conditions but I would need to do something to protect it from moisture eventually.

I cut a piece of Blackbutt to 150mm in length, then cut a section of it to about 35mm thickness. As the decking board is 19mm in thickness, I glued two of these pieces together, then after it was dry, cut the side to be a total of 35mm thick. It had a firm fit on the steel post, so next thing to do was to try and hammer it into the hole. It wasn’t easy to do, and only managed to get it in partially, so that might have to do. I could see the concrete pad moving as I was hammering it in.

Then finally to put the post back on – I had taken the actual letterbox off the post, and was able to hammer it onto the Blackbutt section. It seemed to be very firm – and didn’t seem likely that I could easily take it off again. When I push on the post, I could see that the concrete pad was shifting.

Anyway, it seemed to do the job – although as I mentioned, it is a temporary fix. The best option, would be to buy a replacement post, then dig up the concrete, and install the new post in new concrete, but this time, make the concrete higher that the ground level and slope it so that water doesn’t stay at the bottom of the post. In any case, concrete is alkaline and would cause corrosion anyway of the steel post. Maybe I should think of another way to install the new post.

For now, it is quite serviceable, and definitely will not fall over when the postman next puts a few letters of parcel into the letterbox. To help the timber last, I should most likely fill the gaps and seal it maybe with a waterproof paint – let me see what I have sitting around. That’s it for today. I know that this won’t last long, but who knows – it could well last a year. That should give me plenty of time to arrange a replacement post.

Repair.IT – Repair of smoky Amtex HSC40-20 Switched Mode Power Supply

Just recently, the Segway Ninebot One S2 that I had repaired previously came back for me to look at – a battery problem again. I removed the covers and took the battery pack out. Sure enough, the battery pack had failed, so I opened the battery pack and was setting up to check and charge each lithium cell.

I have a modular Amtex HSC40-20 switched mode power supply that had 12V and 5V outputs. This power supply was housed in a plastic box with banana sockets on the front. I have used this power supply from time to time to power up and check IDE disk drives using the attached Molex cable. I decided that the 12V output would just be ideal to power the Swallow battery charger for charging the lithium cells.

Once everything was cabled up, I commenced charging the lithium cells. Cells #1 and #2 were fine, still with a full charge, but when I went to charge #3, I heard a slight pop/hissing sound – then looking around, I noticed a wisp of smoke coming from the power supply – so I hurried switched it off.

I disconnected the power supply and took it over to the screen door in order to open it up (in case of a lot of smoke). After removing two screws, the top cover was removed and this acrid smoke came out. The box was full of this smoke. I put the box outside on the deck to let the smoke dissipate. After a number of hours, I brought it back inside, but the smell was still there – so after a brief inspection, put the top cover back on for the time being.

This power supply was one of two that I had purchased many years ago – and the date code on the label shows 8432. Translating this date code using the legacy notation indicates that the power supply was manufactured in Week 32 of the year 1984. Not bad for a power supply that was 37 years old.

What had failed was a 0.1uF MP X2 capacitor right next to the bridge rectifier. This metallized paper capacitor is part of the EMI/RFI suppression filter that is meant to remove electromagnetic noise and interference from the incoming mains.

I got my other unused power supply out of storage to examine and to do some comparisons. It was easier to take photos of this one without the attached wiring.

A photo of my unused power supply (Serial number 1839).

I could see that there were very fine cracks in the same capacitor and in two other MP X2 capacitors which was part of the same filter.

A closer look showing the position of the MP X2 capacitors in the other power supply.

On further examination of the failed power supply, I found two capacitors on the DC outputs that I appear to have replaced previously. I must have been in a hurry back then, as I had replaced them with axial capacitors instead of radial capacitors. I should replace those as well, while I do this repair. I forgot to take a photo of the actual failed power supply but here are the MP X2 capacitors after removal.

The failed capacitor is a 0.1uF 250VAC MP X2 capacitor. It is made from metallized paper folded and encapsulated in plastic. The age cracks in the plastic must have allowed moisture to enter via the humidity in the air, and this must have degraded the paper insulation, causing the capacitor to fail. The X2 rating means that it is mains rated and would fail in a shorted configuration which would normally blow the power supply fuse. I was able to switch it off before it shorted completely.

On Thursday, I ordered the replacement parts from the local Jaycar in Rydalmere, and picked them up as they had all of the parts in stock. The replacements are all polypropylene so should never need replacement due to age. The repair was straight forward, first installing the DC output capacitors, then installing the replacement X2 capacitors which were yellow in colour now, instead of grey.

Note the serial number 1847!

After this repair, I switched on this power supply, and was able to measure the right output voltages from the terminals – and no more smoke, although the odour is still present. I then proceeded to replace the MP X2 capacitors in my other power supply and then stored that one away in its foam wrapping.

This should remind me to be wary of old power supplies that had been sitting around unused for long periods of time. Don’t leave them running unattended or inspect these parts before using the power supply, if possible. Anyway, another repair (or two) completed.

Repair.IT – Sharp CD-BP1200 Mini Component System

Some time ago, this Sharp CD-BP1200 Mini Component System was brought to me by my sister. It was just the main unit, which comprised of a 3 CD player and dual cassette. It was originally from one of my cousins. At the time, it was inspected and found that some screws had been removed from it, maybe to see if something could be fixed in it.

Anyway, it looked like quite a nice unit, with a digital volume control. When I powered it on, all I could hear was a very loud hum from the speakers, even with the volume set to zero. This meant that it was likely to be ripple in the power supply that was getting into everything.

After removing two screws, the side panels can be taken off which then gave a view of the interior. I was able to spot a bad capacitor in the corner, which to replace would need moving the main board out of the case. There were five screws holding the rear speaker and other connectors to the back board, then seven screws holding the board down. Another screw was holding the front headphone socket, then removing another five cables allowed the board to move out.

It is often amazing how dust can still accumulate in a fairly closed box. After a bit of vacuuming was done, I can then get to the offending part.

This capacitor, which is a 2200uF 35V electrolytic capacitor had failed, as can be seen by the slight bulge and dark discolouration on the top. The other one nearby is a 3300uF 25V which appears to be fine, but since both of these are used in the DC power supply, it would be best to replace both.

I checked the local Jaycar website for replacements, but they didn’t have the 2200uF 35V capacitor listed. The one that I needed would have to be a high temperature one, rated to 105oC. It also needed to have a pin spacing of 7.5mm so that it would fit in easily.

If it wasn’t for us living in the Parramatta LGA which is subject to a max 5km limit, I could have just gone for a drive to Wagner Electronics in Summer Hill who should have these available. Anyway, online shopping is the way to go, so I was able to find these on Element14’s website. I added this and the 3300uF 25V capacitor to my shopping list. Element14 has free delivery if the order is over $50 otherwise it costs $15 for delivery. For parts totalling $3.30 I generally add to the list, then eventually once I accumulate sufficient items, I place the order.

In due course, I had enough on the shopping list, but then I had to choose alternate parts due to availability. Most of the stock that I wanted was either in the UK or in Singapore. Eventually I was able to order parts that would come from the UK and take 5-8 days, give or take, since delivery times have been extended due to the Covid pandemic.

Over the past couple of weeks, I got some deliveries, then the ones I wanted finally arrived last week. I was able to replace the capacitors with a slight hiccup. The 3300uF capacitor had some much glue that removing it also damaged one of the pads. I was able to get the replacement soldered in with a wire bridge to fix the damage.

After reassembling everything back into the case, it was time to test it out. It works, no more hum from the speakers – dead silence when the volume is set to zero. Currently it is playing Celine Dion as I write this. Another successful repair completed. Great use of time for another Covid lockdown afternoon.

Recover.IT – Access to a Linux laptop with a forgotten password

How many of you have had this happen to you? Rarely, I suppose for a linux laptop, but a Windows laptop? More often than not – it happens with an old laptop that has been put away because the new one has arrived. Sometime later, you are looking for some photos and you remember that they are on the old laptop. But you can’t remember the password. Most options would be to take it to a computer shop – and they do their magic and you get a new password.

What about a Linux laptop? Try that with the local computer shop, and they will be scratching their heads and offering to install a new OS onto it. Get the message?

Actually it isn’t very hard at all, but you do need to know something about the Linux operating system. I mentioned some of this in a previous post – https://j0hn88.wordpress.com/2021/03/16/restore-it-access-to-netgear-readynas-pro/

Let me explain the not-so-hypothetical scenario. One of my nephews lived in an apartment nearby then got a job in the UK and moved there. We helped to clean out the clutter, repair things that had been broken – like this https://j0hn88.wordpress.com/2019/12/31/repair-it-vertical-blinds-broken-cord/

One of the things he left behind was an Asus Eee PC model 701. I remember that he had bought this ages ago, and at the time, he got it with Linux. Anyway, we brought this back with us along with many discarded electronics, numerous USB power packs, android tablets and the like – and these were stored for future sorting out. One of these discarded items was an Acer monitor that didn’t a stand, so I put a stand on it and used it as my second desk monitor.

This Covid pandemic lockdown has caused most of us to be home-bound, and it has given us an opportunity to spend more time bonding together, or stressing out because we can’t get away from each other, but I digress. We can also use the time to sort out the clutter that accumulates. I came across this Asus Eee PC and tried to turn it on, but of course the battery was flat and would not turn on. I found the power adapter and after charging it, was then able to turn it on.

This Asus laptop has a 7-inch screen and runs Ubuntu Linux. I was faced with a login prompt – ok, I can use this to write an article about how to get into this and either crack or replace the password.

Ok – the process is as follows!

  1. Get access to the disk
    • I opened up the bottom of the Asus but all I can see is a memory module.
    • This means that the disk is likely not removable – ok, I will have to boot from USB then.
    • I checked my bag of USB drives and found a Knoppix 8.2 Live USB disk – this is a sufficiently old version that should run on the older hardware.
    • Plugged it into the Asus
    • Powered on, and pressed Esc to get to the Boot Menu
    • Chose my Toshiba USB drive and pressed Enter
    • Knoppix booted up and by using “dmesg | grep sd” I can see an internal disk “/dev/sda”
  2. To find out the partitions on the disk
    • sudo fdisk -l /dev/sda
    • shows me that /dev/sda1 is the Linux partition
  3. Mount the disk /dev/sda1
    • Issue command “sudo mount /dev/sda1 /media/sda1”
  4. Now check for the password hash file – /etc/shadow, and make a copy of it
    • sudo cp /media/sda1/etc/shadow ./shadow
    • sudo chmod 0666 ./shadow
    • now I should have access to a copy of the file
  5. Look at the file
    • cat shadow
    • I can see a user and a hash, michael – just happens that my nephew is Michael
    • The hash has a 5 character salt, so I should do the same when I generate a new password hash, or even just use the same salt
  6. Generate a replacement hash for the michael account and for the root account
    • openssl passwd -1 -salt gw7Wo 12345
      • $1$gw7Wo$yzpjpfOFABNrfPr9zMiyd1
    • openssl passwd -1 -salt miPee admin
      • $1$miPee$OxQLmiJqepYIujU0V0z5h0
    • ok, so now I have a new hash for the michael account and a new hash for the root account
  7. Modify the shadow file with these two hashes and copy it back
    • nano shadow
      • modify the first line for root, then the last line for michael, replacing the original hashes with the ones that I generated in the previous step
      • save the file
    • sudo chmod 0640 ./shadow
      • this changes the permissions back to what the file originally had
    • sudo cp ./shadow /media/sda1/etc/shadow
      • copy the modified file back to the internal disk
  8. This is now done except to unmount the disk

Some screenshots of the above steps:

Step 2. Fdisk output
Step 5. Found the password hash for michael, and has a 5 character salt
Step 6. Generate the new password hashes using the original salt

So, does it work? Yes, I rebooted and was able to login to the Asus laptop with michael and 12345 as the password. Now the steps noted above are not stealthy, since my modification of the shadow file will have today’s timestamp, but since this laptop is for me to play around with, it doesn’t really matter. If I wanted to be more stealthy, I would write directly to the disk, bypassing the file system – such as how I did this with the NAS.

This shows that if we have physical access to a laptop or even a desktop or server, we could accomplish the same thing. Give ourselves credentials to use or access the device, modify operating system files, install rootkits, malware etc. So it is best to restrict physical and remote access to our protected devices, don’t leave them sitting accessible in the cafe, when we queue up to order or go to the restroom – make sure they are secured.

What else can we do? Enable boot protection to only boot from the internal disk, not from USB. Enable tamper protection software that will detect if the contents of important files have changed. Enable full disk encryption, if the system supports it – most modern systems are capable of this. Anyway, this was just to illustrate one particular use case where we may want to replace a Linux password or two, in order to recover access to the device. It is preferable for us to do this ourselves, than to have a hacker do this without our knowledge.

Repair.IT – APC Back-UPS 650VA UPS Model BK650MI – Part 3 (Finally)

This is a followup on my previous post on my APC BK650MI UPS repair – https://j0hn88.wordpress.com/2021/07/21/repair-it-apc-back-ups-650va-ups-model-bk650mi-part-2/

As you might remember, the relay arrived after a long period of time and I found that it wasn’t actually a new relay. I contacted the seller and after some time, he agreed to refund me since it wasn’t clear that he would be able to actually send me a brand new relay. Then he went on holidays, but a few days ago – I got a notification that I had received a refund on my Paypal.

Things like this can happen – especially when only one ebay seller lists this actual relay. The alternative is to go to AliExpress, but then it might end up with the same seller. As this UPS had been sitting there, with a new battery and without a relay for a long time, I decided to just test the relay and found that it appeared to work consistently. As it isn’t a new relay, and no idea of how hard or long its working life has been, I might have to use it for the time being.

With some slight difficulty, I managed to install this relay and solder all the pins – and the result is that the UPS is now working. I might let the UPS do some non-critical work for the time being before accepting that it is going to be 100% functional.

Anyway, I just wanted to finalize this particular repair so that it doesn’t sit around in pieces, taking up room. That’s it for now. If I have any further issues with this relay, I know what to do.

RedFlag.IT – Phishing emails

Due to the Covid pandemic, we are now living in an online world. It seems that the bad actors haven’t stopped, but have likely increased their activities. Here is an email I received this morning.

What are some of the red flags that should immediately pop up to tell you that this is not legitimate?

#1 – A subject line without spaces is very unusual, and one with underscores is effectively telling us that something isn’t quite right.

#2 – the logo shows Australia Post, but the sender name is Australian-Post..

#3 – the sender email address is some admin at darcity.info – shouldn’t it be from austpost.com.au?

#4 – I am not expecting anything from Australia Post (that might not be for everyone because some people may be expecting a parcel from Australia Post)

#5 – In the fine print – This offer is brought to you by Open Gang – huh?

#6 – Open Gang has an address in Mauston, Wisconsin – actually that particular address does have a package depot, but how do we in Australia know this without using Google Search?

#7 – The entire area with the white background – if you click it, will load darcity.info/r9f02.php

#8 – the click here also loads the same link

That is already 8 red flags that should indicate that this is not a legitimate email and you should never click any link in an email unless you know for certain that it came from a trusted sender.

What else can we do to confirm that this is bad? We can use Gmail to do a view page source and check what links are included. In this case though, the email is obfuscated, and loads an image that has an embedded link.

We could also use a virtual machine to download that file r9f02.php and inspect it. I did this in a Kali Linux machine and it is essentially a html file, with no php code at all – another strange red flag.

Not only that, the html is identical to index.html downloaded from the same site.

It seems that they want you to enter your email address and submit it so that they can track your parcel. So this is effectively a phishing scam that is collecting working email addresses for onsale or other purposes, like further phishing attacks.

If you are like me, you can go further and waste more time that is. Do a ip location check on the web host and find that it is likely located in Newark, New Jersey. That in itself is not a red flag as often companies use web hosting services for running web sites.

You could do a search for “371-34632900 scam” and you find a nine news article

https://www.9news.com.au/national/australia-post-scam-hackers-impersonating-national-postal-service/9ddcdf84-9195-48cf-952a-51e019361d36

and another advisory from matrix 7 https://www.matrix7.com.au/advisory/advisory-track-your-package-scam/ warning about the scam.

As I didn’t click on the link, I don’t know what else would happen after entering the email address. Anyway, that’s enough for now.

Recharge.IT – NiCd battery in solar garden lights

During our Sydney Covid lockdown, we cannot go out except for essential activities such as buying food, medicine etc, so how do we spend our time at home? As is often the case, we do some cleaning up. I had been going through the garage in the past weeks, and had come across four solar garden lights that had been bought from somewhere and then had been forgotten about.

I checked them out and they did not light up – so thought that is was likely that the battery had gone flat and failed after many years in storage. I had put them out in the sun a couple of weeks ago, but only one of them started working. That meant that the others could also work. I opened them up and found that the battery inside them was a 2/3AAA NiCd 1.2V with 150mAh capacity.

Unfortunately I didn’t have a NiCd charger that could take 2/3AAA’s so had put them all aside. This afternoon, I thought about that again and since the battery was in a holder, I could use my Swallow charger. The lowest charge current that my Swallow could supply was 0.1A which is way too high for this battery – but I thought that it wouldn’t hurt if I kept the charge time short.

I started charging then noticed that after several seconds, the output voltage rose quite rapidly to 1.5V which isn’t good.

I monitored it and then cancelled the charging after a couple of minutes. After doing this, I tried turning on the garden light and it worked.

That was great. Now on to the others – eventually after just charging the battery for 2 minutes each time – there was sufficient charge in each battery to turn the garden lights on. Tomorrow, I will place them in the sun, to do some slower solar charging. If I do this over a couple of days – I will be confident that I can start to use them on the weekend.

Repair.IT – 2CR Crystal locked FM radio

Six years ago, I wrote a post in which I had to recondition a slide switch in a crystal locked radio. It seems that the switch is playing up again, so it is time to do this again.

The 2CR crystal locked FM radio is a radio that has three channels, one of which is the 2CR station, and two others seem to be 2AC. These are relatively cheap radios, but I don’t like to throw them out if I can help it. The switch is a double pole triple throw (DP3T) slide switch, which I tried to find previously but gave up.

The radio was opened up and the switch was desoldered from the circuit board. Then removing the contacts, I can see that one part was again tarnished, and was not able to make any contact.

The large lower contact is the common connection, and this was causing the channel selection to fail. I had previously used sandpaper to clean the contacts, but this time I decided to use a sharpening block, like what we use for sharpening knives. I found that it takes less material off it.

It now looks different, doesn’t it? I then sprayed some contact cleaner on it and reassembled the switch. To confirm that the switch was working, I used a multimeter in resistance mode to check that the contacts were working in each switch position. So this repair will hopefully last another six years.

That wasn’t all! As usual, the radio has a telescopic antenna attached, and with usage and occasionally heavy handedness, the antenna broke – in the second section from the end.

The broken end is a bit sharp and can cause scratches. I thought about how I might repair it – or find a replacement antenna on ebay. Then I got a bright idea – I could make something to solder onto the end.

I had a brass screw that looked like a good size – so it was off to the lathe. I made some rough measurements, and it was only a matter of minutes before I was done – just in time for lunch. Since brass is quite a soft material, most of the time was taken up with measuring the diameter after doing a bit of turning.

There it is – the finished product still in the lathe chuck – can you see it? Maybe I should do some cleaning around the lathe so you can see it better?

Ok, there it is! The larger diameter is 2.8mm and the smaller diameter is around 2.43mm – maybe a bit larger, as I can try to see if it fits inside the broken antenna.

Here is the finished product with my rough drawing of how it would look. The fit is not too loose, as I will want to solder the two bits together.

After soldering – it looks quite nice, in my opinion. I left the screw head as it is, so as to show its origin. Then it was a matter of reattaching the antenna to the radio, solder the wire for it and back it goes together.

I left it playing and my wife came in and heard it – “Oh, you fixed it?”. That’s it for the time being. Take care and don’t go out too much, especially with our continuing Covid lockdown in place.

Repair.IT – Ikea Striberg Led Lighting strip – Part 2

I mentioned a few days ago, that I received a shipment notification that my infrared emitters were in Australia and on the way to me. They did finally arrive on Friday. This fine Sunday morning, it was time to install the replacement infrared emitter. I did that, and was delighted that the Ikea Striberg Led lighting strip was now working very well in the automatic mode. I can put my hand about 10cm in front, and the light would go out – fantastic!

This meant that my diagnosis was correct and that the original infrared emitter had gone dim – I based this diagnosis on the measurement of the voltage drop on the original emitter. This voltage was higher than it should be, and indicated an internal high resistance fault. The replacement infrared emitter is a type OFL-3102 made by Multicomp Pro.

This is the link to the device – https://au.element14.com/multicomp/ofl-3102/infrared-emitter-940nm-t-1/dp/1716707

The minimum purchase quantity was 5 units, so I bought 10 units, which meant that individually, the infrared emitter cost 20 cents each including gst. I now have 9 spares to go into my parts collection. If I bought these on their own, I would have had to pay $15 for delivery. However, I also bought some other things at the same time, so once I went over $50 for the order, I got free delivery. I often have other bits and pieces that I want to buy from Element14, so no big deal.

Anyway – that is the end of this story, or is it? While waiting for the infrared emitters to ship from the UK, where most of the stock was being held, I also decided to reverse engineer this lighting strip. I looked at each side of the board that the components are mounted on, and drew out the components as a schematic diagram. This is hand-drawn for the time being, as I wanted to understand how it works.

Most of the components are easily recognizable – a few transistors marked with a code that I needed to look up. Essentially, the 12V input connects directly to the leds via some limiting resistors. There are 3 leds in series with 3 parallel resistors – then 4 lots of these in parallel. 12 leds in total. The limiting resistors have markings 680, 680 and 750 – which translates to 68, 68 & 75 ohms each, then in parallel works out to be 23.4ohms in total. I measured the voltage drop across those resistors when the led lights were on, and got 2.5V, so each string of leds are passing about 106mA – so effectively 0.3W leds are being used.

When the switch is set to ON, then the negative or ground lead is then connected to the LED -ve, so all the leds light up. When the switch is set to Auto, then the ground lead goes to the ground that I have drawn, which means that the other electronics are enabled. The 12V input is converted to 5V through the use of the 78L05 voltage regulator – marked N1 at top right. The infrared emitter is driven from 5V through a 100ohm resistor, then switched with a N-channel MostFet marked A2SHB. Looking up A2SHB tells me that it is a GMS2302AL made by Dongguan Yushin Electronics. In the Auto mode, then the leds are switched on using another MosFet.

The rest of the circuit, shows the IR phototransistor being amplified by 3 transistors, then fed to the integrated circuit N2 on pin 7. Anyway, the integrated circuit N2 is marked 24. I don’t know what this is, but would guess that it functions as a proximity detector. Fortunately in my case, N2 is working fine – otherwise it might be a job to find a replacement. I noted what the pin functions for N2 are. The Reset pin 4 is determined because it has a capacitor which is then charged by a resistor. Pin 2 I guess would be an enable or some other purpose, but just has a pull-up resistor on it.

Essentially the function of N2 is – to pulse the IR Led, looks for a return pulse via IR Sensor, and if no return pulse, will activate LED Drv. In english this means if no pulse received, turn on the light – but keep sending pulses and checking for the return. Once pulses are being returned, turn off the light until it doesn’t detect return pulses.

That’s it for now – what’s for lunch!

Repair.IT – APC Back-UPS 650VA UPS Model BK650MI – Part 2

This is an update on a previous post – https://j0hn88.wordpress.com/2021/06/01/repair-it-apc-back-ups-650va-ups-model-bk650mi/

Today, in the mail, I received a small packet – which felt like the relay I ordered for this UPS, seven weeks ago. Once I opened the packet, sure enough it was the relay, and I got very excited as it would mean that I could finish the repair of the UPS. Alas, it was not to be. Once I inspected the relay, my excitement dissipated and was left with a mild disappointment.

The relay that was supposed to be brand new (I checked the eBay listing) appeared to have been removed from existing equipment. The solder pins still had solder left on it, and the casing was discoloured and had some fine scratches on it.

In contrast, I then took another photo to compare it with the relay that I wanted to replace.

My faulty relay does look almost new – doesn’t it? Anyway, I did the usual “contact the seller”, mentioned that what I received wasn’t new and added a couple of photos showing the condition and that there was solder on the pins.

Since the supplied relay is not new, I cannot know what condition it is in, other than performing an extended test on it. For its purpose in switching the power to the outlets of the UPS, it is too critical to use a second-hand replacement unless there is no choice.

I did have a look at alternative relays and have found one that is a higher rated relay at 8 Amps instead of 6 Amps. The main problem is that the alternative is not a sealed relay – a factor that would be important, since the UPS will have a lead acid battery in it, which can release hydrogen during charging. A relay that is not sealed, means that hydrogen could potentially get inside the relay, and when the relay switches over, the slight spark could cause an explosion.

But then I saw a YouTube video of a repair of an APC Smart-Ups UPS and it appeared to contain a combination of sealed and non-sealed relays, so maybe I am over-thinking too much about the risks. I do try to replace with identical or higher rated parts if I possibly can.

In the meantime, all I can do at this stage for the UPS is to wait for the seller to respond. I got an email this afternoon that my order of the infrared emitters has been shipped. I should get that tomorrow hopefully and work on the led lighting strip.