I bought this Hantek DSO5062B Digital Storage Oscilloscope back in July 2013 as a replacement for my aging Hung Chang DS-635 35MHz Oscilloscope. The DSO5062B is a 60MHz oscilloscope and has a colour LCD display.
My DS-635 was bought in the early 1980’s and had served faithfully but had started to have intermittent faults. I meant to have a look at fixing it, but at the time, there was an offer on these Hantek’s, so it was a good opportunity to upgrade.
The digital storage has been very handy to look at waveforms and digital protocols, like serial output from unknown equipment. Just recently I got it out to help with the repair of the Ikea Striberg Led Lighting Strip. Once triggered, it would sample the waveform and then I can look and inspect various aspects of the waveform at my leisure. The old analog oscilloscopes could not do that – we would have to set and change trigger settings, delayed trigger etc – to view the waveforms for the detail that we wanted.
While using it for the Striberg, I noticed that it was not keeping the time. It is supposed to contain a real-time clock, but the manual didn’t mention anything about it. Eventually I found that the second page of the Utilities Menu allowed me to adjust the date and time.
It was then a matter of highlighting each field, press V0 then rotate to change the number, press V0 to set it, then rotate to the next field etc. After doing this, I left it for a short time, then turned off the DSO.
After turning on the DSO, the clock was reset again – looks like it works while powered on, but then forgets. The manual was checked again, and there was no mention of a clock battery. Sometimes these are powered by a NiCad battery which has probably gone flat, or maybe there is a coin battery – but the manual was of no help at all. A check of Google only showed replacing the lithium battery for portable Hantek oscilloscopes.
I then decided to open the case – two screws near the mounting feet, and two long screws under the carry handle. Once the case back is removed, this is what I see.
The power supply is the main part visible, then the main circuit board protected by a metal cover. If the oscilloscope had been powered up recently, the big capacitor on the right can still hold a lethal charge – even after a couple of minutes, so leave it for a while, if you are going to work on the power supply.
The metal cover has five screws, and once removed, I spied a coin battery in the corner. If I was to choose the most inconvenient place to put a removable coin battery, that would be the spot.
After some effort, I managed to pop the battery out – it was a CR2025 and measured 0V on my multimeter. I didn’t have any new CR2025’s in my spare battery box, so opted to borrow (steal) one from a camera remote control – one that I knew I wouldn’t need for a long time.
Once installed, I put the metal shield back on, then the case. Turning on, I set the date and time then let it sit for a while. 30 minutes later, I turned it on, and saw that the time and date were now correct. Hooray! Another repair done, by replacing an undocumented CR2025 lithium coin battery in the digital storage oscilloscope. Now to update my register of battery requirements. That’s it for now.
[P.S. Some of you might have seen the little sticker with red writing – that says “Remove seal after washing”. This covers the piezo speaker so that the solvent (used to wash the printed circuit board to remove flux and other contaminants after wave soldering) doesn’t get inside it and stop it from working. Actually I think it is better this way, as the beeps can get too loud, otherwise.]
R.IT 