Repair.IT – Eagnas stringing machine tension head with LED display

Just over a week ago, I was asked to look at a couple of Eagnas electric stringing machine tension heads.  These are similar to the Hawk 126e with LED display.  One tension head was pulling much too high in tension, the other just broke my string because it didn’t stop pulling, and almost pulled my electronic calibrator apart – I remember seeing the display go up to 95 before the string snapped.  I was only testing it at 20lbs.  Note to myself, next time – use badminton string so it should snap a lot earlier without going to such high tensions.

Ok, this machine that didn’t stop pulling – I took it apart – it wasn’t easy.  I eventually worked out that it is best to remove the 240/120V selection switch first – there are two screws under the label.  Then coax the front switch out through the front panel, and remove the six plugged in wires – after noting down which wire goes where.  Also remove the push button switch out the front but leave it loose.  After removing the four bolts that hold the cover in place, it was now possible to lift the cover and essentially manouver it off. Then reconnect the front switch to the correct wires.

After doing all of this, I then found out why the machine would not stop.  When the motor runs and pulls hard enough, a long lever should push onto a microswitch that will then stop the motor.  The part that was supposed to press onto the switch lever didn’t because the lever had bent away from it.  I bent the switch lever back so that it would activate.  Then I wanted to stop it happening again – so I made a little piece of wood, that would fit under the switch mounting that would stop the switch lever from moving sideways.  It will still move sideways, but not enough that it won’t be pressed when the right tension is reached.

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Next step was to check the tension that it pulls at.  To adjust the tension, I need to adjust these small trimmer potentiometers, the ones in blue.

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I mounted the tension head onto my test bench and proceeded to adjust and set the tension at 55lbs.  This machine would be used for tennis.  If it was for badminton, I would adjust it for 25lbs.  Once this was done, I put it all back together and then did a final calibration check.  This is by setting the tension at 20lbs then pulling and recording the tension that was reached, then increasing by 5lbs, etc until I get to 65lbs.  I can’t go any higher with my test bench because the tension calibrator support was starting to bend.  I will add another piece of steel to stiffen it for future testing.  Finally a photo of my test bench with it tensioning at 50lbs and a slight cluttered working area – lots of xbox controllers.

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[Note]  By measuring the tension at various points, we can plot this onto a chart so that we can determine what setting we need to get a particular tension.  This is what calibration usually refers to.

21 thoughts on “Repair.IT – Eagnas stringing machine tension head with LED display

  1. wes says:

    Please help with fixing an Eagnas Hawk Tension head. Problem : Have to adjust tension and recalibrate after turning machine off and on.

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    • Wes, if it is a similar model, it should not be necessary to recalibrate if the machine is turned off and on. Sometimes the potentiometers that are accessible at the front may not be making contact properly so that might be the reason. To fix the contacts, it is necessary to move the contacts clockwise and anticlockwise a few times, but try to position it back to where it was. I.e. using a Philips screwdriver, turn one way – a quarter turn each time, until it gets to the end, then turn it back the same number of quarter turns. Then from that point, continue the other direction, then come back. Do this on both adjustments a few times, and it should be ok after that. If you have a digital tension meter, I usually use that to check the calibration. These machines will not be linear, i.e. if you adjust it to be correct at 55 lbs, then it will be much lower at 30 lbs, and could be higher at 65 lbs. It is just the way it is.

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      • vdellaban8 says:

        Hi John,
        I have the eagnas hawk 126e and while I was trying to calibrate the tension, I dropped the machine and the motor head casing broke. I believe it is a wiper motor.
        I just wanna ask if you have any idea what kind it is or if I can just get any similar type of motor?
        I’ve been searching for a 12v right angle reversible wiper motor I’m just not sure which one to get.
        Does the wattage, rpm, stuff like that matter?
        Also wanna say thanks for your posts, they have been very helpful.
        Hope to hear back from you soon.

        Anthony

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  2. ian says:

    I have a tension head (eagnas?) which uses the same components and want to replace the potentiometers . One is not working but both have damaged adjusters due to rough treatment. Are they readily available and what would be their rating etc.
    Thanks Ian

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    • Michael, I guess you are asking about which potentiometer to adjust and when. Your manual will normally have a guide that explains how to set the potentiometers. Before adjusting them, please note the current position of each setting. Follow the calibration steps and using a small flat screwdriver, adjust the particular potentiometer in small steps, and retry the calibration.

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  3. Trey says:

    Hi John,

    I recently inherited one of these machines, and after taking the cover off, noticed two things.

    1. The tension spring which is controlled by the knob on the side is limp and loose. The tension head has pivoted leftwards, and is not making contact with the tiny switch behind.

    2. The “hi” trimpot has fallen off, and someone has taped it back in place. I’m assuming this won’t work.

    Any info you can give me about proper spring positioning would be extremely helpful!

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    • Trey, if it is ok, I will send an email to you on this. Perhaps the best way is to send a couple of photos to me so that I can advise further. The trimpot, if it has come loose, would either need to be resoldered, or replaced – taping back certainly is unlikely to work. The tension knob would be attached to a screw that somehow connects to the carriage and should be adjustable, by turning something which will normally be quite tight. It could be that the screw has been disengaged. A photo would help.

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  4. Al says:

    HI John.
    Great post. Very useful. I have been having trouble with my machine (the exact same one) and people at Eagnas have not been very responsive.
    I was just wondering why there are two potentiometers and if I should use both to calibrate the tension. I don’t have the user’s manual anymore.
    Thank you !

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  5. Al says:

    One last thing I forgot to mention. The digital screen indicating the tension keeps turning itself off for no reason. Sometimes it comes back on by itself, sometimes I have to turn the machine off and back on to have it working. I am not sure it has any influence on the tension, but it is annoying…

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  6. Alvan says:

    Hi John, I have the exact same model of Eagnas stringing machine (Eagnas Flex 865) in this post. I got it off 2nd hand. I was trying to calibrate the machine the other day, without knowingly, I accidentally turn the screw with the nut (what do you call this, btw?). I had to remove the cover, and this was very difficult as well (is there a step-by step guide on how to remove this cover?). I only managed to partially removed the cover with all wired still attached, such that I had enough access to put the screw nut back into its position. I carefully closed the cover.

    the machine is always showing approx. 5 lbs over the set tension (60lbs). This is even after I have fully turn the screw nut clockwise to reduce the tension. Further turning this screw nut will result in it becoming loose again.

    How do I do now to calibrate this properly?

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    • Alvan, Hi. Sorry, I didn’t notice that your comment – somehow didn’t appear as pending, so didn’t see it. You can try further adjustments to the trimpots, that control the amplifiers for the sensor. The manual should show what the calibration method is. However the easiest way, is to make your own calibration chart. Knowing that a set reading produces a measured tension allows you to try the different set readings, then make a chart, so that you know what tension you want, then set the number on the machine.

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  7. ARC says:

    Hi John,

    I have the same machine (Eagnas Flex 865) on which I am trying to calibrate using Gamma Calibrator. I do not have the manual for the machine as this was hand me down by a friend. When I try to calibrate it at 50lbs, the calibrator will register different results on the same setting.

    Can you help me calibrate the machine?

    Do you have a manual on this machine?

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  8. vdellaban8 says:

    Hi John,
    I have the eagnas hawk 126e and while I was trying to calibrate the tension, I dropped the machine and the motor head casing broke. I believe it is a wiper motor.
    I just wanna ask if you have any idea what kind it is or if I can just get any similar type of motor?
    I’ve been searching for a 12v right angle reversible wiper motor I’m just not sure which one to get.
    Does the wattage, rpm, stuff like that matter?
    Also wanna say thanks for your posts, they have been very helpful.
    Hope to hear back from you soon.

    Anthony

    Like

  9. I recently fixed a Eagnas Hawk 880 LE with a identical head like in your posts. The problem was no motor movement in clockwise rotation (tension) but rotation ok counterclockwise (release tension).

    There was a relay on a PCB inside the tension head (NOT the PCB with the display and the calib potentiometers) that was bad. I suspect the large current for the motor going through the relay contacts had damaged the relay contacts. Testing the relay removed from the PCB ; I could hear relay click, the relay coil tested good…but no continuity through contacts in normally open position when relay energized from external power supply. This Eagnas machine had very little use looked almost new.

    It was possible to unsolder the relay and replace with an identical one without having to tear much of the mechanism apart : Remove the cover, remove the PCB with the calib pots and display…the solder pads for the relay are accessible from there. A bit tricky to slide new relay in to PCB holes but it can be done.

    For calibration of these heads, you have to do it with a electronic weight scale for the exact XX pounds/kg you want to string at and redo it as soon as you do another racket even if you dont change the setting.

    The spring and microswitch system in those heads is not good and linear at all. You must calibrate often and absolutely if you change tension settting with control knob on right of head.

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